The Farmstead at Mine Brook's Goat Rising chèvre becomes a masterpiece at Circa in Northampton

“Goat Rising Chèvre Ravioli with Squash and Sage Brown Butter.” If that doesn’t sound like autumn on a plate then nothing does, and the chefs at Circa in Northampton, Mass., transform the already decadent artisanal Goat Rising chèvre from The Farmstead at Mine Brook in Charlemont, Mass. into something even better.

John R. Miller, owner of The Farmstead at Mine Brook, wanted to be a farmer since he was a child. He grew up in a farming family and now makes his award-winning Jersey Maid and Goat Rising artisanal cheeses. “I make the cheeses that I’m passionate about,” he said.

Miller studied cheese-making in Quebec and now makes many French-inspired cheeses. His Goat Rising traditional chèvre has become a rising hit. The cheese is made from the milk of Nubian goats, which has the highest natural amount of protein, milk solids, and nutrients when compared to any other popular goat breed. And because goat’s milk is naturally homogenized, it has smaller fat globules, making it much easier than cow’s milk for humans to digest. All of this together results in a rich, creamy and mildly tangy cheese.

The goats on the farm are grass-fed, but they do have a balanced diet, which includes organic clover hay, wildflowers, and mountain spring water.

“If you only feed them grass, the result won’t be as good," said Miller. "It’d be like feeding a human only romaine lettuce. We make sure our goats have a balanced diet." This, he explains, makes for a better product in the end. And he must be doing something right, because he won two gold medals from the 2008 World Jersey Cheese Competition.

Local chefs have taken notice of the quality of Miller's cheeses as well. Jeremy D. Whitcomb, 31, owner and executive chef of Circa, has made Miller’s cheeses a staple on his menu. One dish, a homemade ravioli stuffed with Miller’s traditional chèvre and farmstead ricotta, is on the menu at Circa throughout the year.

“The ravioli stay the same, but the presentation changes,” said Whitcomb. “So we might do it with chervil or sorrel in the spring, then with marinated tomatoes and a basil purée in summer, and then with squash and maple and walnuts like we have now for fall.” But no matter what the preparation, Whitcomb said that the dish has been a staple on the menu and has continuously earned great reviews.

The menu doesn’t change strictly with the seasons, however. “It changes whenever I feel like changing it,” Whitcomb said. And he finds inspiration from as many local products as he can. “Our motto is quality of ingredients,” Whitcomb explained. “That means everything from the most delicate greens to the wine, and even the butter and the bread. We take a lot of pride in what we do and the customers think it definitely shows.”


Whitcomb said that even Miller himself has been in a few times and has enjoyed seeing his cheeses used in such a variety of ways. This mutual appreciation between the farmers and the chefs that makes the experience so enjoyable. Whitcomb said that he loves the relationship that they’ve developed with Miller and his staff. “It’s really about trust,” Whitcomb said. “I trust that he’ll continue to make his cheese the way he always does, and he trusts that I’ll showcase his products in a way that he’d want them to be.”

Miller and Whitcomb agree that local products deserve public recognition. And so far, they’ve spotlighted these products in a way that’s earned nothing but praise.

Chef Jeremy Whitcomb's Goat Rising Ravioli Filling Recipe

*Make pasta using your favorite fresh pasta recipe.

For the filling:
2 cups fresh Goat Rising traditional chèvre cheese
1 cup fresh Jersey Maid farmstead ricotta cheese

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 egg yolks

Pinch of salt

Freshly grated nutmeg to taste



Mix all the ingredients to fully incorporate and chill 30 minutes to set up. Fill your fresh pasta with the mixture. Pinch and cut into your favorite shape. Cook and serve, or freeze and keep up to two weeks.